Bathroom lighting: volumes, IP rating and what is possible
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This is the room where you don't choose a light fixture like anywhere else: water, steam and electricity do not mix, and the electrical installation in a bathroom must comply with precise rules. Here is a clear explanation of what safety zones are, what the IP rating means, and where a decorative indoor light fixture can legitimately be placed.
Why the bathroom has its own rules
The standard governing domestic electrical installations in France divides the bathroom into zones, defined by the distance from the bathtub or shower. Each zone has a required level of protection for the equipment installed.
This division is not a mere formality: it reflects the real risk of splashing and condensation. An existing installation may also be old and non-compliant: if in doubt, have the room inspected by an electrician before adding anything.
The zones explained
Schematically, there are four zones. Zone 0 corresponds to the inside of the bathtub or shower tray: only very low-voltage equipment specifically designed for this area is permitted. Zone 1 is directly above the bathtub or shower, up to a height of 2.25 m, and Zone 2 covers a 60 cm band around Zone 1 at the same height. These two zones require light fixtures designed to withstand water splashes.
The rest of the room constitutes the non-zone. This is the only area where a standard indoor light fixture can be considered, provided the room is properly ventilated. The exact boundaries depend on the layout: fixed screen, walk-in shower, corner bathtub, ceiling height.

What the IP rating means
The IP rating has two numbers: the first relates to protection against solid objects, the second to protection against water. An IP20, common for a decorative indoor light fixture, offers no protection against water. An IP44 resists splashes, while an IPX5 resists jets.
In Zones 1 and 2, therefore, equipment specifically designed for wet rooms is required, not a standard decorative light fixture. The full meaning of this rating is detailed in our article on reading a light fixture's technical specifications.
Our light fixtures: where they can go, and where they cannot
To be perfectly clear: our blown-glass light fixtures are designed for dry indoor spaces and have an IP20 rating. They are not suitable for installation directly above a bathtub, within the 60 cm band surrounding it, or in a shower.
However, in a large bathroom with a well-separated dry area, an adjoining dressing room, or above a vanity unit away from the shower and outside the safety zones, a decorative light fixture can still be considered, such as this floral chandelier in gold opaline glass. The prerequisite is always the same: have a professional confirm the boundaries of the safety zones.

Lighting the mirror without shadows
A ceiling light on its own, placed above the head, accentuates facial features and casts a shadow over the face: it is the worst lighting for shaving or applying makeup. The best setup is to place two light sources on either side of the mirror, at face height, or about 1.60 to 1.70 m above the floor.
Aim for a colour rendering index (CRI) greater than 90 and a colour temperature around 3,000 K: skin tones will remain true to life. However, be aware that depending on the mirror's position relative to the shower or bathtub, these wall lights are often located in Zone 2 and must therefore be designed for this purpose.
Humidity: what ages well and what does not
Glass is unaffected by humidity. Unvarnished brass, on the other hand, patinates much faster in a damp environment, and painted steel shows marks more easily. Ventilation is just as important as the choice of materials: a properly ventilated room causes far less damage to finishes.
Also consider limescale: smooth glass is easy to rinse and wipe clean, whereas a model with many parts will retain marks. The appropriate cleaning method for each material is explained in our article on cleaning blown glass and maintaining brass.
Separate shower room, toilet, or laundry room
A separate toilet without a shower or bathtub is not subject to the safety zone division: you can install whatever you like, within the bounds of common sense. The same logic applies to a laundry room, unless it is in the immediate vicinity of a sink or water source.
These rooms, which are often windowless, have their own lighting requirements: we cover them in our article on lighting a room without windows.
The most common mistakes
Installing a decorative light fixture above a bathtub because "steam doesn't rise that high". Relying on a central ceiling light and lighting yourself from above in front of the mirror. Choosing a cool white light with a poor CRI, which distorts all skin tones. And modifying an electrical installation in a wet room yourself: this is exactly when an electrician's expertise is essential.
Where our light fixtures belong
For a dry area, an adjoining dressing room, or a bedroom open to the bathroom, our blown-glass wall lights and blown-glass chandeliers are perfectly suited, such as this vintage wall light in ribbed pink glass and brushed brass. For actual wet rooms, choose equipment designed for this purpose: it is a matter of safety, not style.